Vasind - Bringing my birthday alone

 This year is special for several reasons. Some dreams met, some not and a contemplative head about the future forced me away from the ruckus that is any birthday. I have anyway always treasured calm over celebrations and so it was time to get away.

There are several solo female travelers who travel the world happily. But I was skeptical of going alone mainly because of lack of experience. But this time it had to be away. Although my life is filled with lovely people.I craved calm the most. 

I had only one requirement - A water-body nearby. And a lot of consultations later, I came across Vasind camp of Big Red Tent. This post is a review of BRT as well as the documentation my experience of bringing in my birthday alone.

Getting there : This was by far the hardest part for a couch potato like me. A cab ride would cost around 2,500/- Rs.and I can't drive so driving is ruled out. I took the train from Dadar to Asangaon and chugged along to Vasind in sweltering June heat. Once there, a rickshaw was arranged for me which charged a steep hundred bucks for a very short distance.

Welcome : After getting there around 5 o clock, I was served a cuppa chai and offered a hammock but it was to hot for it and I decided to wait it out till it was cooler.

Unexpected surprise : The camp houses a bunch of small children who do odd jobs at the place, many are bread winners for their family. Th host informed that the camp has a strict policy for attending school and monitors the children's school performance. The children were a happy bunch cycling about and chitchatting they climbed trees and brought the amazing Jamun's, Damans, Mangoes and one fruit I have never even heard of! It was amazing talking with them  and then the host took  me about the property.

Pitching tents : Relatively simple and fun activity.

There is an option of Kayaking for those interested.

The highlight - The Bhatsa : The setup for the deal I chose viz. Camp Glamp is such that it is barely five steps from Bhatsa river. I spent most of my time in the lake swimming,floating, enjoying the clear water. I was served piping hot tea in the lake!  I could Amir Khusro and say that 'If there is a paradise on Earth, it is this, it is this, it is this'

Dinner : Yummy fresh barbecue after which I had no capacity for anymore food!

Rest! Comfortable bedding and sleeping bags with fans in your tents. You can ask for permission to sleep out under the skies.

Hygiene : Clean washrooms and bathing rooms.

Birthday Blue's: So all I wanted was a calm sleep on my birthday for which I escaped the city but this was not to be! My co-guests were also celebrating their birthday and were keen that I should join them so they dragged me out of my tent at 12 am sharp. Turns out my friend also had a role in convincing the hosts to do the cake ritual at 12 a.m.  I will take this opportunity to strongly protest against the cake ritual! I'm a morning person guys, i'll much appreciate it if you could bring my cake at 6 a.m. instead of 12 p.m.! But full marks to the hosts in arranging a cake at a short notice.

The morning after : Was obviously spent in the lake while sipping cuppa chai's, followed by a simple breakfast and adios to the most beautiful water-side around.

Rani Ki Vav

I had the desire to visit the Vav was since it was declared a World Heritage Site in 2014. This shows what an ignorance we collectively have of our Historical Sites. And so, the standard disclaimer holds that I am but a curious student and no expert. I visited the Vav in December, 2014: once in evening and then the next day morning. This followed by a visit to Patola House Museum nearby. I returned even more curious from this trip.

Here is a layman's account of the Vav.

THE QUEEN AMONG STEP-WELLS

When Udaymati commissioned the building of Patan Vav, what did she seek to achieve? Many things, actually.

First, the entire western India is a region with low water table, less rainfall, poor soils and it was a necessity to bore such deep wells.

Second, it is dedicated her husband, Bhimdev I Solanki, so it earned her merit and legitimacy. The whole complex has several images of Parvati's severe penance for Shiva. Thus, Udaymati too hoped to be one with Bhimdev by means of this commemorative shrine.

Third, the structure is abound with sculptures of gods, goddesses, minor deities etc, so surely Udaymati hoped to gain religious merit too. Constructions are, even in general, considered a meritorious activity in India.

Finally, such structures require pooling in resources, experts as well as a huge number of laborers and so is good employment generating scheme in regions where agriculture is far from being very productive or remunerative.

I like to think of the Vav as a great virtue out of necessity.

The Gardens

Coming to the Vav, we can see a clear three-fold division in East - West direction.
1. The step well (at the Eastern end)
2. The reservoir
3. The main well

All of this is inside, what now appears like a pit, minus the erstwhile glory.

It is located in a sprawling garden which is very well maintained by ASI. The locals were seen enjoying this scenic garden in the evening time. A lasting sight was of two children who rolled down from a tiny hillock to the base along the length of the garden and repeated this process many times.

The Step Well

Situated at the Eastern end, the step wells are the most beautiful part of the structure. Originally, the entrance was guarded by two massive toranas which no longer exist.They steps run west up to the reservoir or the Kunda.

View from Eastern End

And as you step down, you can observe subsidiary steps in multiples. At each wall on two sides there are numerous sculptures which can be divided in to, Major gods and several minor nymphs, fantastic animals, patterns etc. There steps on sides too.

Side Wall

Supplementary Steps

   

Niche Decor

Main and subsidiary niches

A prominent feature is the beautiful pillars, which supported several levels terraces when the Vav was in its prime. These too are profusely carved with nymphs, protective animals etc. Using pillars, terraces were placed one on top of another till they reached ground level. Visitors are not allowed to step on these terraces.

Pillars and Terrace

A Terrace with freestanding Pillar

The Reservoir

The rectangular tank is now visible only from a distance as the entire west is now closed off to the public. 

Closed off end

Bottom-most point. 

A good number of sculptures are visible throughout the Vav and we can specially observe Sheshashayi Vishnu, Parvati's penance and the eight Vasu's who's story appears in Mahabharata. 

Seven of the Vasu's were sacrificed by Ganga to rid them of the curse of staying on earth.The eighth Vasu who survived became the famous Bhishma Pitamah. We were informed that a sculpture of eight Vasu's bowing before Udyamati's reservoir is still present at the base. Thus, the Kunda is exalted to the status of Ganges herself.

This is just one example of the rich symbolism associated with Rani ki Vav.

The Main Well

The west end has a deep well. The water from this well used to overflow over in to the Kunda.

The well itself was recharged by River Saraswati till 1980's, though now it is dry. Water could be drawn out from the well end.

View from Well End

The Well

A Note on Patan Patola

The Patola House is "the only museum for Patan Patola's in the world", the owners claimed. The museum opens at 10 a.m. but the patrons were kind enough to allow us entry at 9 a.m. Although the closing time is 5:30 sharp. Here you can observe the complex  Patola karigari. There are pictures of famous celebrities who have bought Patola (Shabana Azmi, Jaya Bacchan, Ambani's, Sonia Gandhi etc.) Also, the impact world-over of Patola work which have manged to achieve  poor imitation of this art. Patolas are available for sale, but the cost is upward of Rs. 2.5 lakh and there is a minimum waiting period of six months. Patola production involves imprinting on the threads itself. The pre-planning and unique mathematics which go in to making a Patan Patola are a closely held family secret. Photography is strictly not allowed.

Image Courtesy : Pinterest

The place is also known as Salvi Wada and it is run by traditional weavers from a family only twelve of whom have now remained in the craft. They were settled in Patan (From Jalna, Maharashtra) so that the Kings can obtain fresh Patola regularly. They have now completely lost all of their Maharastrian mannerisms. The art has G.I. tag now and Salvi women and non-Salvi's are being allowed to learn the art so that it isn't lost.

But the most magical part for me was observing the Patola  motifs on the walls of Patan step-well.

Patola Motifs

It just goes to show how integrated their lives were when art forms spilled in to each other seamlessly.

I have so much more to tell and there is so much more I don;t know yet, but this blog demands brevity. You can read more and see better pictures in the links below and online.

Patan has much more to offer than I could cover and is a must-visit place :)



Further readings:
Rani Ki Vav
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rani_ki_vav
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/922

Patan Patola
http://www.livemint.com/Leisure/PWKBRogLL50HQfNo8YKPVI/Textile-Conservation-The-centennial-weave.html
http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/2014-03-01/news/47799584_1_weavers-patan-patola-salvis

Modhera Sun Temple

Since I am writing about a historical, well-researched site which I have limited knowledge about, I will begin by acknowledging this fact. Whatever I will put here, I have seen at my small trip to the beautiful Modhera Sun Temple. I have verified the things I am putting up from the internet.

Endless Modhera

The Sun Temple built in 11th  century, is not just about religion but also about Science.The location 'Modhera',is a surprise because why would some one leave the grandeur of Patan and Somnath to choose this unknown location. The reason is twofold.

Mythologically, Modhera is the place where Lord Ram performed his penance for Brahmahatya (Ravana).

Scientifically, it is the location of passing of Tropic of Cancer, it is perfect for study of movement of the Sun (The Earth.)

Managed by ASI, the temple complex also has a small museum showing independant structures which fell off or were pillaged from the main temple.

The main structures of the complex
1. Surya Kund
2. Sabha Mandap
3, Guda Mandap with a Sanctum Sanctorum
4. A small temple withing the precints.

It was attacked and pillaged by Mahmud Ghazni who carried off most of the valuables and his attack impacted the structures too.

The Surya Kund

Image.1. Sunbathing at Surya Kund

The 'Surya Kund', reminiscent of the famous step wells of Western India was a site of ritual ablutions. The secondary steps in pairs reminds of the Rani ki vav at Patan. It is famed to have had 108 installations of god-goddesses, a number which holds special significance in religion, spirituality, mythology and even martial arts. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/108_(number))

The Sabha Mandap

Crossing, the two Toranas, one enters the Sabha Mandap. The interior and the exterior are both profusely carved and it may take at least a month of committed study to get a true picture of this detailing.
But what struck me was the fact there are 52 pillars symbolizing 52 weeks of the year.

The Guda Mandap

The Guda Mandap is full of carvings and it's walls (both exterior and interior) are a storyteller's paradise. No worship is performed her anymore and yet the pious visitors all removed their shoes before stepping in.
The most special feature viz. the sanctum is now sealed off. But the stories about the golden statue of Surya on seven horses in a pit of gold coins inflames one's imagination. The sunlight falls on sanctum twice a year, on equinoxes due to it's being placed on the tropic. The generic pradakshina patha is seen too.

The Small Temple

There is a small temple outside the main structure. A striking feature in this is that a subsidiary image of Hanuman is seen in which he is flying without the parbat and is blessing the devotees with his free hand.

Some interesting images..

1. Birth. 

Located outside the Guda Mandap.

A Scene showing a birth of a Child

2. Death. 

Being carried away for cremation

3. Garba 

Behind the Guda Mandap, dances and revelry.

Dancing in Joy

4. Roof of Guda Mandap. 

An inverted Lotus pattern

ROOF

5.  Vishnu and Parvati 

Located outside the Guda Mandap.

Shesha shayi vishnu

7. Vishwakarma - Carpenter/architect

He is seen with a scale, he has the credit of designing and planning Dwarka

Vishwakarma

8. Headdress

9. Keechaka

The Mythological story about how Bhima slayed this nuisance causing monster. 

1O. Mythical Scene

11. Vyala

A fantastic solar symbolic animal, it portrays the victory of spirit over matter

Further readings.

http://www.ignca.nic.in/nl002206.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sun_Temple,_Modhera
http://www.thehindu.com/features/metroplus/travel/the-sculpted-magnificence-of-the-sun-temple-of-modhera/article6643420.ece

Take A Trip With Your Parents.

Have you noticed how easy it is to make parents happy? They never really want much. It makes them very happy if you're happy and EATING WELL. 

For example, my parents, their faces light up when we make simple plans with them, like going to a 'function' with them or small shopping trip to the vegetable market to carry their bags. 

Moving on to the main point of this blog:

I had a really hectic three months recently and wasn't able to give much time to my parents, although they still managed to give me a lot of theirs, even though I was lost in my own sweet world. My siblings too were really very busy at the time and  our parents still managed to fill all of the empty spaces in our schedules with as much comfort as they could muster.

I made a note to myself about all the things I would do when I got some time. On the top of that list was, 'Spend time with mom-dad. Do simple silly things that they enjoy. Go to 'family - functions' or 'receptions' or wherever the hell they want you to go! Don't be pragmatic. Just do it because they said it. In an instant, Say Yes!, if they ask.

Now parents have a way of making everything about you. I don't know if I speak for all when I say this but they really do. And so it happened when I asked them to go out on trip together. They made the trip about me. From the word go! I was the key planner, the commander and the chief. And they, the most perfect travel buddies.

I figured it is relevant to write down all that I realized on this small 3 day trip: 

The Perks of Taking a trip with your Parents

Planning is makkhan (Butter)

My parents just wanted me to be happy and rejuvenated. So, they said they would go, where-ever I wanted to go.

Now, I have made plans with friends before. And I know how rare such an authority is!

Normally, one guy is the main proposer and soon the main punching bag. He has to handle a variety of people before his plan can reach fruition! Few people will suggest a completely different place, others will suggest a different route or mode of travel, few will complain about the weather, the cost. Few will have overslept on the day of execution! 

In this trip I was more like Aladdin and each of my wish was a command!

You comfort and convenience is of maximum importance

In this trip I spend all my time between pit-stops, in deep sleep. I'm not even a car person. But there was something about mom-dad-ness and lack of pressure to look prim and proper that I dozed off in the most adrak-shapes possible. I swear I have never slept so much in day time, EVER. 

I'm not ruling out fatigue etc. But still, I was always warm, the music was soft, no pictures of my adrak-postures was taken. And I sure as hell, came out of this trip fresher than ever,

Decisions on loo-breaks and food-breaks and 'what to order' and the pace, change of plans/moods etc.

At this juncture, I'm sort of belaboring the point the I called the shots on this trip. But seriously, I really did. It was the feeling of being a small time CEO cum MD :P 

I could easily have said, " Staff, humaare aage ke quarter (hour) ke plans XYZ hai" 

The Wallet

I forgot that I had one! Or where it was or even that I earn.

The little things that you forgot to carry

No, you didn't, because, super mom's travelling with you.

Appreciate the finer things

You will know so many finer things about your parents in the sanctity of a small travel space (vehicle etc.) It's a different world when all of you let your hair down :)

There may be some unexpected perks too. Like in this trip, we managed to squeeze in meeting mom's old neighborhood aunt, 'Mangla ben'. It helped me to see my parents in a new light.

Charging

You get the first claim on the charging port. ;)

Finally, their Joy! :) 

They are so happy to be with you! I took my unsuspecting parents to see exactly two Historical sites. Now, they're not lovers of History but they know so much! Even about History and they were so happy to share!

We had long discussions about life, religion, Badshah Khan, city versus village, gardening, driving etiquette, faafada and such! I cannot describe in words how 'in-the-moment' I was at the time.

Concluding, it is really important to remember what a great bunch of friends we have at home. It is  relevant to keep on rediscovering and rejuvenating this friendship from time to time!